February 2022 – Wayilwan Country
Magic Marshes
The Macquarie Marshes north of Warren NSW have undergone an astonishing transformation – and now is the time to see it.
The world-renown Macquarie Marshes are flourishing after one of the wettest years in a very long time – and it has to be seen to be believed. Lagoons, channels, and marshes are full of water. Vegetation is lush, birds are abundant. Frogs, insects, and fish are in profusion.
Just three years ago in 2019 it was a very different scene. The northern section of the marsh was on fire, badly damaged during the horror bushfire season of that year.
The Macquarie River had stopped running at Warren and without the sustaining flow of water into the wetland, its extraordinary biodiversity collapsed.
The Macquarie Marshes are thought to be between 6000 and 8000 years old and are one of Australia’s most important inland breeding sites for water birds. They are listed under the Ramsar Convention as wetlands of international importance. The Macquarie River is their water source, and the extent of the marsh varies depending on what flow comes down the river.
Most of the threats to their survival have arrived in the last 200 years. Dams on the Macquarie River and its tributaries have reduced inflows into the wetlands, water extraction for agriculture and other uses have also reduced flows, and grazing has been a pressure for decades. Throw in a warming and drying climate and nobody really knows the future of this magnificent wetland. But for now, at least, it’s a place of natural wonder to anyone who cares to make the effort to go and see it.
What we did
Burrima Boardwalk
For such a significant place, it has not always been easy to see the Macquarie Marshes. It’s surrounded by private land which had no public access, but in recent times this has changed with the opening of the $3.4 million Burrima Boardwalk and other facilities.
Burrima Boardwalk is on land owned by the Macquarie Wetlands Association and includes almost 2km of walkway with an elevated section. This allows you a real glimpse into life in the marsh. As I walked along, I was literally being startled by large waterbirds which suddenly flapped away as I approached. An Azure Kingfisher landed in the tree above my head. I watched large cod swim languidly along the channels. Dragonflies, bees, and other insects hovered about the profusion of colourful wetland flowers. Great spreading gums provided shade and the rustling of the huge reed beds was ever-present.
There is a picnic area with toilets, and you should take plenty of water and all your own food.
Getting there and getting in: Burrima Boardwalk is about 90 minutes’ drive (129km) from Warren on Carinda Road. It’s tarred all the way – but narrows in places (except for the gravel drive into Burrima which is only a kilometre or so). Make sure you have enough fuel – there’s none between Warren and the boardwalk. You must register online to enter the boardwalk and there is a fee of $25 (money well spent in my opinion). When you have paid, you will receive an email with a code to punch into a keypad when you reach the main gate. You cannot enter without this code.
Bird watching
at about the 110km mark on Carinda Road you will reach the Gibson’s Way crossroads. Turn right here if you are keen on birdwatching and drive about 7km (over a bridge on the Macquarie River) until you see a set of covered information bays beside some large lagoons around Monkeygar Creek (good during wet periods like we’ve had). The road over Monkeygar Creek was impassable due to flood water when I visited, but I watched the birds here for a long time from the roadside. A beautiful spot.
Tiger Bay Wetland
Another good spot for birdwatching is located on the outskirts of Warren on the Coonamble Road close to the Window on the Wetlands Centre (see below). Tiger Bay is a natural overflow of the Macquarie River system, and home to numerous species of birds and aquatic plants.
Window on the Wetlands Centre
Do not miss calling into The Window on the Wetlands Centre in Warren. It’s the last word on everything about the Macquarie Marshes. It’s located in an old church hall moved to the spot and is surrounded by gardens and a collection of display boards which explain the complexity of the marsh in great detail. The centre hosts the Warren and Macquarie Marshes Visitor Information Centre and is run by volunteers. Open 8.15am to 5pm daily. They will be able to tell you about road and flooding conditions before you go and about some of the guided tours that are available. Call them on 02 6847 3720.
Wander Warren
Warren is a small rural service centre on the Oxley Highway just over an hour from Dubbo. It’s well-kept streets and pretty parks make for a lovely stroll. In Macquarie Park beside the river there is the huge stump of an old river red gum which has been carbon dated at 950 years old. The giant tree was quite a local landmark until it fell in 1998. The stump is almost 9m wide and thought to weigh as much as 15 tonnes. There’s some nice water tower art over by the swimming pool.
Where we ate
Warren is not a culinary Mecca by any means, but you can get a good coffee and a snack at of one of two local cafes. For meals I called into Warren Exservices Club for a cold beer and the best bangers and mash I’ve had in ages. You can get other food supplies at the well-stocked IGA in Dubbo Street.
Where we stayed
Warren has some good solid country motels. We stayed at the Warren Motor Inn in Chester Street – not far from the local pool. It was clean, comfortable and airconditioned which is a must at Warren in the summer.
