October 2019: Wiradjuri Country
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What we loved
We went to Harden Murrumburrah for the annual kite festival but we found so much more. We discovered well kept little towns set in the picturesque farmland of the southwest slopes of NSW. Together with its twin town, Murrumburrah (literally next door) Harden has a fascinating collection of historic buildings. Harden’s main street is punctuated by distinctive date palms which give it a unique look and feel. We met many friendly people who were up for a chat and happy to help when needed. The twin towns have a burgeoning restaurant and cafe scene and we enjoyed some excellent meals. And of course, there’s the delightful annual kite festival.
Two peas in a pod
Without reading a sign, it’s impossible to tell where Harden ends and Murrumburrah begins. They might be called twins, but were not born at the same time. Quaint Murrumburrah dates from the 1840s with a collection of buildings to match. In 1877 a major station on the Sydney-Melbourne railway line was established a mile up the hill (still there and still operational). Murrumburrah remained the township, while the station became known as Harden. A decade on a branch line opened to nearby Young further populating Harden with railway workers, driving it’s development as a separate town. This also spawned its own collection of buildings and businesses to service train travellers and the workers. These days though, for all intents and purposes, the two are one.
What we did
Kite Festival
It was this event that brought us to Harden, and it is a mainstay of the local tourism calendar attracting thousands of people. From the moment we drove through the gates to see huge kites bobbing and weaving in the sky above the crowds, we started to smile. Mums and dads, kids, grandparents – so many people taking time out to just fly a kite. Diehard kite enthusiasts from all over bring their colourful mega kites along for the sheer joy of it. A pair of whales swam through the air.
A giant penguin and a koala swayed on the breeze. Huge bol kites spun wildly. Its just a delight to stand and watch. In the unlikely event that you should tire of watching the spectacle, take a wander around the festival. You’ll find an array of local and international food, music, and kids’ activities. Working dog demonstrations and even Australia’s champion woman whip cracker helped entertain. Plenty of parking and just a few dollars to get in!
Explore the history
The development of the two towns is written forever in the style of their buildings. There’s some beautiful old churches including 1868 St Mary’s Catholic Church on the hill overlooking Murumburrah and striking 1934 St Anthony’s Catholic Church on the rise at Harden between the two towns. Its spire is visible for miles around. Murrumburrah Court House was built in 1880 and across the road is Barnes Store (1860). The murder of it’s original owner, John Barnes, by bushranger John O’Meally is a sad tale. You can read about it on an information board in the street. The Murrumburrah Institute and the Mechanics Public Hall Institute at Harden are both handsome Federation builings. Take a wander – it’s well worth it.
Light Horse Memorial
Murrumburrah is the home of the Light Horse Memorial which recalls the birthplace of the First Australian Light Horse in 1897. The first muster and enrolments of the 1st Australian (Volunteer) Horse took place in Harden Murrumburrah that year. About 30 of these recruits went off to the Boer War. The 1st Australian Horse was absorbed into the Australian Light Horse in 1903. There is a collection of sculptures – but none as striking as the full size statue of Major General James Alexander Kenneth Mackay by Melbourne sculptor Louis Laumen. Quite extraordinary when illuminated by the early morning sun to which it faces. Mackay is considered the founder to the Light Horse – an idea he put forward as the local MP and in which he served in the Boer War.
Bill the Bastard
No visit to this area is complete without knowing the story of the ultimate War Horse – Bill the Bastard from WWI. Bill was a whaler horse who served in the Middle Eastern conflict where his cantankerous nature and stubborness earned him the colourful name. But his real fame came during the Battle of Romani, where he and Major Michael Shanahan rescued four soldiers from certain death on the battlefield. The extraordinary horse carried the five men to safety. A life-sized bronze statue of that amazing feat is well underway and should be unveiled next year. It’s the work of Carl Valerius, a local craftsman who also made the existing small sculpture which you can see at the memorial in Murrumburrah’s main street.
Museum
It was the handsome Federation architecture that first drew our attention to Murumburrah’s museum in the main street. We popped in for a look and among the things that impressed (besides the building itself) was the former refreshment room bar from the Harden Railway Station which now serves as the museum counter. It speaks of an era of grand rail travel that simply does not exist anymore There’s the usual collection of memorabilia relating to the area’s history – gold mining, commerce, music, fashion, photos and of course the Light Horse. Ask for a demonstration of their remarkable kerosene fan – amazing!
Where we stayed
We like to be in the thick of things when we travel – and we found just the place in the Old Bakery Guesthouse which is quite literally in the main street. The building dates from 1889 and was the orgininal Harden bakery. We loved our stay. It was well equipped, clean, comfortable and stylish. Very well located close to everything but also quiet. Our host Annie was very attentive to our needs. Everything we needed was on hand – such as the supermarket across the road. We came across an historic picture of the building at the Murrumburrah Museum. It was taken in 1960 when the building still had a verandah.
Where we ate
Jackson’s Bakery Cafe
We had a really delicious breakfast at Jackson’s Bakery Cafe in East Street, Harden. It’s a working bakery – but with a delightful cafe on the side. The beautifully kept courtyard garden was such a lovely backdrop. The coffee was excellent and the food very good.
Light Horse Hotel
The Light Horse Hotel is the oldest trading hotel in the twin towns, built in Murrumburrah’s main street in 1861. Locals Karen Kemp and Rhys Gray did a major reonvation last year bringing the beautiful old pub into the modern day with accommodation attached next door. There was a crackling fire and a good selection on the menu. Typical pub meals at a high standard as well as a choice of pastas, pizzas, salads and burgers. They are also open for breakfast. We ordered the crumbed lamb cutlets and the beer battered fish and chips washed down with some great craft beer from the surrounding region.
