When you travel to Goulburn NSW you’ll realise immediately this unique inland city has a colourful history. The wealth and influence it once had is reflected in the scale and splendour of its streetscapes and it’s architecture. The huge impressive Post Office, the spectacular Town Hall, amazing old churches and street after street of imposing, opulent and interesting buildings. This is a grand old lady with a thousand stories to tell.
What we loved about Goulburn
The weather. Yes, you heard us. Even in the first days of winter when it was a brisk 2 degrees over night, it was the perfect time for travel. You need brisk weather to truly enjoy an open fire. We were impressed to find one crackling away in the waiting room of the historic old railway station of all places. There is a particular pleasure in rugging up warmly when the air is crisp and the night is clear and you’re meandering up the main street to a restaurant for dinner.
The morning fog cleared to deliver the sort of sunny winter’s day that is gorgeous but bracing at the same time. Then there’s all that history we mentioned previously. It’s everywhere. It’s what you’d expect for the oldest inland city in Australia. The highlight for us was the Historic Goulburn Waterworks – a unique steam age relic which is still in situ and in working order. It was operating on the day we were there – and is one of the main reasons we decided to visit Goulburn. More on that later.
What we did in Goulburn
Walked the walk
We popped into the visitor’s centre to pick up a heritage walk map to guide us around the the city’s main historic buildings. The walk takes about an hour and includes the jewels in Goulburn’s crown – the lovely railway station, the magnificent court house which is supposed to be haunted , the post office and town hall, the unusual green stone Catholic Church of St Peter and Paul and the spectacular Edmund Blacket designed Gothic Revival Cathedral Saint Saviours. Hard-working volunteers gave us a tour of the cathedral and explained its history. You should see the fabulous old pipe organ! Had it not been for the steaming day out at the waterworks – we would even have been prepared to attend church to hear it played.
Add to these treasures a good smattering of impressive commercial buildings, pubs and Belmore Park with its 150 year old oak tree right in the centre and you’ve got a timeline of Australian architectural styles. There is a plaque on the tree commemorating its planting in 1869 by Lord and Lady Belmore. They were in town for the opening of the Goulburn railway line and her ladyship planted it with her own fair hand. It’s now known as the Belmore Oak and the park is also named after them.
Remembered the fallen
Heritage listed Rocky Hill War Memorial is well worth a look. Built in 1925 to honour those who served in the Great War the tower sits solemnly on a high rocky hill overlooking the city and the valley. It’s a very unusual and grand testament to the emotional and social impact of the WWI on Goulburn. Inside the tower is roll of honour listing those who fought and died. You can walk up the stairs to the top – stopping to look at the many historic photos lining the walls. There is a museum as well, but this was not open on the day we were there.
Got hot and steamy
A highlight of the visit to Goulburn for us was the historic waterworks on the banks of the Wollondilly River. It is the only complete operational steam powered municipal water supply in in its original location in the Southern Hemisphere. And its a lot more exciting than that description might have you believe. This survivor from the Victorian steam age is truly marvellous. In an era where we simply turn on the tap for fresh clean water, it’s easy to forget what things were like before this then amazing technology existed.
A reticulated town water supply must truly have been a miracle when previously water was carried by horse drawn cart. It’s a miracle too that the equipment survived at all when all the others just like it at Bathurst, Albury, and Wagga were sold for scrap after WWI.
The roaring fires beneath the boiler, the polished brass, the sight and smell of clouds of steam, the quite mesmerising spinning of the fly wheel and the endless rhythmic movement of so many parts. It’s quite something to behold. Busy volunteers can answer questions and their enthusiasm for the old pumping station is contagious.
Mandelsons of Goulburn guest house was once said to the most luxurious accommodation outside of Sydney.
Where we stayed in Goulburn
Keeping with our interest in travel and all things old and interesting, we chose historic Mandelson’s Hotel in Sloane Street. Built in 1839 it’s got a ballroom upstairs and was once considered to be the best accommodation outside of Sydney. It’s got a fascinating history important not just to to Goulburn but to NSW and Australia. It’s been fully renovated and the guest rooms are in keeping with the era, but also include some modern additions like ensuites and central heating. Owners Claire and Steve Ayling are happy to show you around the building and are well versed in its stories.
Where we ate in Goulburn
Breakfast
We called into Harvest for a quick breakfast. It’s on a corner near Belmore Park in the main street. The homemade granola with stewed fruit and yogurt was delicious! Coffee, tea and some sourdough fruit toast got us off to a good start for the day.
Lunch
You can’t go past the traditional cafe and milkbar – Paragon Cafe – which has been run by local Greek families since the end of the 1940s. It’s been the stop off place of choice for generations of travellers along the Hume Highway and appears not to have changed its approach much in all that time. You can get a good coffee, burgers, milkshakes and the like. A couple of club sandwiches and a side of extra crispy chips was very satisfactory!
Dinner
In the evening we booked a table at 98 Chairs which bosts fresh locally sourced ingredients on their varied menu. One of us had the pork belly, apple puree, kim chi, balsamic carrots with a side of green beans. The other vege assiette, sea water kim chi, corn & mushroom spring rolls, polenta chips, beetroot, hommus, and salad leaves. We washed it down with a nice local red and followed it with a crunchy brown sugar pavlova with berries, and whipped cream.
